How is the rest of the undercarriage? If the bushings are destroyed, i would guess that the sprokets are pretty worn too.
John deere 1010 dozer under carriage install#
Even if you can get pins and bushings, they are expensive (around $1K for a set after shipping) and then you need to account for the labor to install them (don't have a price on that but probably between another $1K to $2K). It may be a moot point to buy this crawler if you can't rebush the tracks. You would need to talk to Lavoy but last I heard he hasn't been able to get very many sets in stock. Now for the bad- the pins and bushings for 1010 tracks are very hard to get. If you want the 1010 loader to do small jobs (not major earthmoving, not large tree removal) then it may work for you. I think we would know what you want to use it for to give you a completely informed answer, but you should know that a 1010 crawler (even the diesel) is somewhat underpowered as a loader compared to the 2010. You DO know this is a loaded question, don't you? Hopefully I'll have pics of it this weekend. But again, is it worth it? Thanks in advance for your help. How serious is the clutch since it feels like its not there? The engine is a concern of mine and but will hopefully have it running before I buy it. I know they're a pain at times, but I'm a John Deere guy through and through and am willing to step up to the challenge. So, is it worth it ? I have a 1010 gasser wheel tractor and grew up with a 2010 diesel crawler. All the gears seem to be ok in the tranny. Good Paint, not all beat up or destroyed like most I see. The main clutch feels like its not there. I have no past information on the crawler. Track Bushings are wore through track pads are good. Crawler does not run needs water pump (at least!!!) I have the opportunity to buy a 1010 Diesel Loader for $1500. From what I can tell from this website the 1010 could have been either, depending on the paint colour.I'm new to the site but have been browsing through the past topic discussions looking for information on 1010 crawlers. Thanks again whiteclipse16, would the filter be on the left side going into the reverser (appears that way on parts manual)? What type of filter went in there? Every time I ask at the dealer they say your part is obsolete, and I can't seem to get much help there, cause they always ask if machine is farm or construction. I was told not to put grease in the mid section of the track cause that would cause it to tighten up, is that true and how tight should it be, cause it looks loose to me. I hope I have found all the grease fittings.
John deere 1010 dozer under carriage manual#
Would like to buy a service manual or perhaps a owners manual to get some basic information on how often to change oil, type. I was told that had to be kept filled cause it fed all hydraulic machinery on the dozer, obliviously not cause the mid section (reverser-?) was dry.
The next spot is a tank on the right side about shoulder high, that seems to feed the cylinders for the blade. Moving back along the machine to where I sit, just under the left brake, is a dip stick, I assume that this is the transmission, it is way over the fill line, amber in colour. So obviously there needed to be oil in this part cause I put some hydraulic in and then it would move, just not sure as to type and amount. Starting at the front there is the engine oil dip stick for the motor oil (what type -?) The newest to find on the dozer is the next in line coming back about mid way looks like could be the reverser using the parts manual to determine, that was dry and the dozer had been moving intermittent for a couple of days without knowing why. I only have the parts list manual to work with. I have to confess quite new to this type of machine.
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